Damond Motorsports Mazdaspeed3 Engine Oil Cooler Kit Install Guide
May 10 2022 – Matt Davey
Keep track temps down with the Damond Motorsports Mazdaspeed3 Engine Oil Cooler Kit.
Here is our install guide.
By installing this Product, you understand that:
The buyer/user assumes all risk as to quality, performance and use of these products and agrees to hold DD2, Inc. DBA Damond Motorsports (“DM”) and its representatives not responsible for any injury, loss, or damage; including any and all incidental or consequential damages arising from the sale, installation, or use of our products.
Many parts are intended for “OFF ROAD ” and “RACING” applications only. It is suggested that State and Federal emission regulation be checked, to see whether or not this product complies with those laws. Read through the instruction guide thoroughly, before attempting this install. Do not install any components while the engine is running or shortly after the car has been running. Give the car some time to cool down. Failure to install this product correctly, or failure to remove/reinstall existing components correctly, could result in poor running conditions, or even component and engine failure, which the sole user of this product is responsible for. The install instructions are intended to guide you on how to install this product properly. Only an experienced mechanic should perform this install. In addition, DM, and its representatives reserve the right to modify and or discontinue parts without notice. If you the user/buyer of this product do not agree with the above, contact DM immediately, to discuss a possible return of our product for a full refund minus shipping costs, and other fees.
- 1 x Damond Oil Cooler Adapter Plate
- 1 x 19 Row Oil Cooler
- 1 x Oil Thermostat
- 1 x Oil Cooler Bracket and Mounting Hardware
- 1 x Oil Adapter Gasket
- 2 x -10AN to -8ORB fittings
- 2 x -8ORB Plugs with 1/8" NPT threaded sensor ports
- 4 x preassembled -10AN lines
- 4 x -10AN to -10ORB fittings
- 6 x 1/8" NPT plugs
- Additional hardware and zip ties
- Safe means of lifting and supporting the vehicle: jack and jack stands, wheel ramps, or lift.
- Torque Wrench
- 1/2" or 3/8" Socket wrench or breaker bar
- 19mm socket or wrench
- 15mm socket or wrench
- 10mm socket
- 8mm socket
- 10mm wrench
- 1" wrench, or adjustable wrench
- 15/16" wrench, or adjustable wrench
- 3/16" Allen key or socket
- Teflon tape
- Assembly lube or engine safe grease
To begin, prep the vehicle by performing the following:
- Jack or lift the vehicle and place securely on jack stands
- Remove the undertray
- Drain the engine oil and oil filter
- Drain the engine coolant
- Disconnect the battery (FAILURE TO DO SO MAY RESULT IN ELETRIC SHOCK AND/OR VEHICLE DAMAGE)
- Remove the front bumper
Remove the coolant lines from the factory oil cooler (shown circled in green)
Remove the 15mm bolt securing the oil cooler to the oil filter housing and remove the cooler from the housing. Alternatively, you may remove the entire filter housing to gain better access (NOTE: a new filter housing gasket will be needed). To do so, remove the 4 x 10mm bolts securing the filter housing to the engine block, and remove the filter housing and cooler together. Remove the cooler, and clean the top of the filter housing of any debris or oil.
Completely remove the shorter coolant hose from the vehicle. Take the open end of the longer hose and place it on the hardline the short hose was removed from. Secure the hose with the factory clamp.
Prep the Damond Oil Cooler Adapter Plate by installing the 1 of the 2 x 10AN flare to -8ORB fittings and 2 x -8ORB plugs as shown. Lightly apply oil to the threads of the fittings and the o-rings prior to tightening. Tighten until tight. Approx. 20-25lbs/ft. If using a sensor, thread the sensor into the plug fittings in accordance to the sensor manufacture's specs. If not using a sensor, use 2 of the supplied 1/8" NPT plugs (apply thread sealant if not on plugs). These plugs are a tapered thread, tighten until snug.
Using engine assembly grease or similar engine safe grease, lightly dab or coat a few spots of the included gasket and place the gasket into the grove on the adapter plate. The grease is used to help secure the gasket in place while installing. Do not use RTV or gasket maker. Apply a light coat of oil to the exposed side of the gasket.
Place the Damond Oil Cooler Adapter plate on top of the filter housing. MAKE SURE THE TOP OF THE FILTER HOUSHING IS FREE OR DEBRIS AND OIL. Align the dowel into the dowel hole and thread in the provided bolt and washer. Tighten to 25-35lbs/ft.
If the filter housing was removed re-install the filter housing to the engine block with a new gasket. Thread in the 4 x 10mm bolts and then tighten to 15lbs/ft.
Take the supplied lines with straight fittings and thread them onto the fittings on the adapter plate. Start with the slightly longer of the two lines, this line will go to the "OUT" from the adapter (port closest to the engine). Lightly coat the fittings with oil prior to tightening. Using a 10AN wrench or similar, tighten until tight. Approx. 30-35lbs/ft. It will be easiest to do 1 line at a time, closest to the engine first.
Route the lines over to the driver-side of the vehicle, and above the slave cylinder.
Prep the thermostat by installing the 4 x 10AN flare to -10ORB fittings. Lightly coat the fittings with oil prior to tightening. Using a 10AN wrench or similar, tighten until tight. Approx. 30-35lbs/ft. If using a sensor, thread the sensor into the tstat in accordance to the sensor manufacture's specs. Install the provided 1/8” NPT plugs in the remaining holes if applicable (apply thread sealant if not on plugs). These plugs are a tapered thread, tighten until snug.
On the Gen2 MS3, remove the horn bracket and set aside. Loosely fit the oil tstat and horn bracket with the provided bolt and rubber washers (washers on either side of the tstat). The tstat can be mounting vertically or horizontally, whichever way you see fit to work with other mods or intercooler piping. If you wish to mount it horizontal, you will need to remove/grind-off the stud from the bracket on the car.
Lightly coat the fittings in oil and attach the hoses. NOTE: The hose coming from the “OUT” port on the Damond Adapter Plate goes to the “in from engine” port on the tstat. The Hose coming from the “IN” port on the Damond Adapter Plate goes to the “out to engine” port on the tstat. Tighten until tight. Approx. 30-35lbs/ft. NOTE: best to use an adjustable wrench to secure the tstat against the rotation of the tightening TQ. Not doing so may result in the bracket breaking off.
For the Gen1 MS3, the procedure is the same, though the bracket may be slightly different.
Remove the front impact sensor bracket and unbolt the impact sensor. Remove the hood latch support bracket and set aside.
Prep the cooler by installing the bracket as shown. Place 6 x rubber washer total 1 between each mounting hole on the cooler and the bracket and 1 under each bolt and each nut. Lightly tighten the bolts securing the bracket to the cooler. Tighten until the rubber washers start to crush ever so slightly. Do not tighten beyond this.
Take the long line and attach it to the left port of the cooler, and the small line to the right port of the cooler. Lightly coat the fittings with oil prior to tightening. NOTE: Use 2 x 10AN wrenches or similar as shown; failure to use a wrench to secure the oil cooler may result in cooler damage. Tighten until tight with the lines both pointing along the length of the cooler. Approx. 30-35lbs/ft.
Install the cooler onto the car with the bolts removed earlier. You may need to lower the hood to ensure the latch is properly aligned prior to fully tightening the bolts. Install the impact sensor with the provided bolt and nut as shown.
Route the lines the best way you see fit over to the oil tstat. The lines are long enough to allow a few different routing options as shown. Lightly coat the fittings in oil and attach the hoses the the tstat. It doesn’t matter the orientation for the in/out cooler lines to tstat.
Now the oil cooler system should be fully installed and the oil and coolant system on the vehicle should be closed. Add engine oil to the crankcase until showing full on the dipstick, then add approx. .75 – 1qt additional oil. Add engine coolant or antifreeze to the coolant reservoir.
Reconnect the battery.
Prime the engine DO NOT START, by turning the key all the way with both the gas and clutch fully depressed. We recommend letting the engine crank for 30+ seconds without starting it to fully build oil pressure. If installing on a freshly built never started engine, you may need to prime for up to 60 seconds to build pressure. Once primed, exit the vehicle and check for leaks and check the oil level. Add oil if needed.
Now the vehicle may be started. Once the vehicle is started, let it run for moment while you inspect for any oil or coolant leaks. If no leaks are present, turn off the engine and inspect the oil level. Add oil if needed.
Wait for the engine to cool and top off the coolant reservoir. Next bleed the cooling system. Mazda’s guide for coolant system bleeding:
- If the water temperature gauge rises too high, stop the engine and decrease the engine coolant temperature to prevent overheating. Then, verify the malfunctioning part and repair or replace it.
- If the engine coolant level in the coolant reserve tank is below the L mark during engine coolant air bleeding operation, stop the engine, and after the engine coolant temperature decreases, add engine coolant. Then, resume the engine coolant air bleeding operation.
- Start the engine and idle it until the thermometer indicator is in the center when the engine is at below 1,500 rpm.
- Bleed the air by following the procedures below. At this time, be careful of the coolant temperature to prevent overheating. NOTE:
- If the accelerator pedal is depressed continuously for a specified time, the engine speed may decrease to the idle speed. This is due to the fuel cut control operation, which prevents overheating, and it does not indicate a malfunction.
- Run the engine at 2,500 rpm for 2-3 min , 2 times .
- Run the engine at 3,000 rpm for 5 s , then idle.
- Repeat steps (1), (2) twice.
- Stop the engine, and inspect the coolant level after the coolant temperature decreases (water temperature gauge indicates ‘C' or less).
- Check the coolant level.
- If it is low, refill the coolant into the coolant reserve tank up to the F mark on the tank.