Damond Motorsports LARGE Mazdaspeed6 Power Steering Cooler Kit Install Guide
The Damond Motorsports Power Steering Cooler Kit, for the 06-07 Mazdaspeed6, is ideal for lowering power steering temperatures on both the track and the street. It also is a great low cost alternative over the factory hardline cooler, which usually succumbs to corrosion and begins to leak. Here is the install guide for the Damond Motorsports Power Steering Cooler Kit.
By installing this Product, you understand that:
The buyer/user assumes all risk as to quality, performance and use of these products and agrees to hold DD2, Inc. DBA Damond Motorsports (“DM”) and its representatives not responsible for any injury, loss, or damage; including any and all incidental or consequential damages arising from the sale, installation, or use of our products.
Many parts are intended for “OFF ROAD ” and “RACING” applications only. It is suggested that State and Federal emission regulation be checked, to see whether or not this product complies with those laws. Read through the instruction guide thoroughly, before attempting this install. Do not install any components while the engine is running or shortly after the car has been running. Give the car some time to cool down. Failure to install this product correctly, or failure to remove/reinstall existing components correctly, could result in poor running conditions, or even component and engine failure, which the sole user of this product is responsible for. The install instructions are intended to guide you on how to install this product properly. Only an experienced mechanic should perform this install. In addition, DM, and its representatives reserve the right to modify and or discontinue parts without notice. If you the user/buyer of this product do not agree with the above, contact DM immediately, to discuss a possible return of our product for a full refund minus shipping costs, and other fees.
- Jack with jackstands, or lift
- Phillips and flathead screwdrivers
- Drain pan
- Socket wrench:
- 21mm or wheel lug socket
1 US qt ATF M‐III, M‐V or equivalent (e.g. Dexron®III)
The bumper does not need to be removed in order to install the cooler. However, removing the bumper allows for much more access to install the cooler. Refer to the bumper-removal guide.
Begin by lifting up the front end of the vehicle, and properly supporting the vehicle on stands or a lift.
Remove the undertray splash-guard(7 X 10mm)
Partially remove the driver’s side fender-guard, and left fender-guard hang(4 X 8mm) and screw clips(2 X Phillips)
Remove the driver’s side wheel(5 X 21mm or wheel lug socket)
Remove air box resonator, if equipped(3 X 12mm nuts extension required)
Remove inner splash-guard(6 X Phillips screw clips)
Using pliers, slide the 4 spring loaded clips off the factory PS hoses
Unbolt the factory cooler/hard line from the subframe(2 X 10mm)
With drain pan ready, remove the factory cooler/hard line from the small PS hose, connected to the front hard line, and let the fluid drain into the drain pan(to push more fluid out of the system, turn the key to the “ON” position and turn the steering wheel back and forth(CAUTION: DO NOT START THE CAR, THE POWER STEERING PUMP WILL RUN DRY AND GET DAMAGED)
Remove the “S” shaped rubber hose from the PS rack that is attached to the hard line
Remove the factory hard line with the connected rubber hoses from the vehicle, and tilt the line to allow fluid to drain. Once the fluid has drained from the line, remove the bracket from the line, and the rubber grommet from the bracket.
Take the bracket removed from the oil cooler/hard line, remove the rubber grommet, and place in on the new LONGER(unless opted for front hard line replacement, then it's the shorter of the two hoses) hose as such:
Install the new hose onto the PS rack, and secure it with a provided hose clamp
Route the hose to the front of the car, and mount the re-used bracket as shown:
Route the hose to the front of the car, along the inner side for the subframe, and secure the hose to the subframe with the provided zip ties
Assemble the other hoses that will go on the front hard line, by connecting the two shorter hoses provided, with the barbed adapter fitting. Secure the hoses to the fitting with the provided hose clamps.
The larger size hose will attach to the front hard line.
Note: If you've opted for the front hard line replacement, you'll remove the front hard line from the vehicle, and connect the new hose(longer of the 2 provided in this case) to the factory return hose with the barbed adapter fitting. Secure the new hose to the front subframe with the provided p-clamps and zip ties.
Mounting the cooler.
This cooler can be mounted either vertical or horizontal. This is to allow fitment for intercooler piping and other accessories. The orientation is totally up to you.
Mount the bracket to the cooler. The rubber washers provided are to be placed between the cooler and the mounting bracket.
Cut the hoses for the desired mounting orientation.
- -If mounting the cooler vertical, the longer hose connected to the steering rack needs to be trimmed 14"
- -If mounting the cooler horizontal, the shorter hose that attaches to the front hard line will need to be trimmed 4.5"
With the hoses cut to length, we can now attach them to the cooler.
- For the vertical placement, connect the shorter front line hose to the top port on the cooler, and the longer rack hose to the bottom port. Secure the hoses to the cooler with the provided hose clamps
- For the horizontal placement, connect the shorter front line hose to the inward port on the cooler, and the longer rack hose to the outward port. Secure the hoses to the cooler with the provided hose clamps(the longer hose can also be zip-tied to the bracket to keep it from drooping)
Now attach the cooler to the vehicle with the provided 13mm locknut. The cooler will mount to the furthest rear mounting stud used to secure the air box resonator.
Reinstall the inner splash guard, under splash guard, fender guard, and driver’s side wheel(and front bumper if removed)
Fluid Fill and Bleeding Procedure:
- Take your new fluid and add it to the steering fluid reservoir, until it reached the “FULL” marking.
- Turn the key to the “ON” position and turn the steering wheel fully back and forth(DO NOT START THE CAR YET).
- Re-inspect the fluid level.
- If the fluid level has gone down, add fluid to the full line.
- Repeat steps 1 & 2 until the fluid level stabilizes, there are no bubbles coming up, and the fluid level no longer goes down.
- Check for leaks along the new cooler and hoses.
- Lower the vehicle, check fluid level.
- Start the engine and let it idle, check fluid level, check for leaks along the new cooler and hoses(if there is a leak or the pump screeches loudly, turn off the car immediately, and fix leak/add fluid).
- Turn the steering wheel fully back and forth several times(CATION: DO NOT HOLD THE WHEEL AT FULL LOCK IN EITHER DIRECTION FOR MORE THAN 2 SECONDS).
- With the steering wheel straight, car idling, check that the fluid is not foamy and the level has not gone down.
- If the fluid level has gone down, add fluid to the full line, and repeat Steps 8 & 9.
- Put on the reservoir cap, and check again for leaks.
The cooler should provide around 15-20% cooler temperatures, however you can modify your fog light shroud and bumper to provide forward air flow to the cooler. The smaller cooler we tested showed 25% cooler temps with the shroud and bumper modified. If you wish to order a spare shroud to do this on, the part number is GP9A50C21C
You’ll first want to remove the fog light shroud, by pushing in the plastic retaining clips that hold it in. 3 are shown here, there are 5 in total:
With the shroud off, determine the holes you want, and use the mesh as a guide, for a factory look. With a very small drill bit, from the front of the shroud, drill in each corner of the parallelograms in the mesh, of the holes you want to create. Once the drilled holes are created, take a dremel with a cut-off wheel, and flip the shroud over to the back, and cut between the drilled holes. Clean up the cuts with a knife, and sandpaper or file.
Next you’ll need to cut into the bumper. Test fit the newly modified shroud to see where you’ll need to cut. Trace the area that will be cut(try and keep the spots where the shroud clips into the bumper). Use a dremel and carefully cut the plastic along your guide.
Here’s a couple pictures of the finished product: