Damond Motorsports Mazdaspeed6 Stage 1 Location 1 Oil Catch Can Kit Install Guide
Posted on May 12 2016
Damond Motorsports Oil Catch Can kits come with everything needed for an optimized Oil Catch Can system. An oil catch can is, in a sense, a filter for the positive crankcase ventilation system. Here is our install guide for the Stage 1 Location 1 kit.
By installing this Product, you understand that:
The buyer/user assumes all risk as to quality, performance and use of these products and agrees to hold DD2, Inc. DBA Damond Motorsports (“DM”) and its representatives not responsible for any injury, loss, or damage; including any and all incidental or consequential damages arising from the sale, installation, or use of our products.
Many parts are intended for “OFF ROAD ” and “RACING” applications only. It is suggested that State and Federal emission regulation be checked, to see whether or not this product complies with those laws. Read through the instruction guide thoroughly, before attempting this install. Do not install any components while the engine is running or shortly after the car has been running. Give the car some time to cool down. Failure to install this product correctly, or failure to remove/reinstall existing components correctly, could result in poor running conditions, or even component and engine failure, which the sole user of this product is responsible for. The install instructions are intended to guide you on how to install this product properly. Only an experienced mechanic should perform this install. In addition, DM, and its representatives reserve the right to modify and or discontinue parts without notice. If you the user/buyer of this product do not agree with the above, contact DM immediately, to discuss a possible return of our product for a full refund minus shipping costs, and other fees.
Here’s a simple diagram of how the kit is to be installed:
OCC kit contents:
1 x Damond Motorsports 5/8” ports Oil Catch Can, preassembled with drain plug and top plug
1 x check valve, preassembled, may be installed on hoses
1 x plastic 90 barb, may be installed on hoses
4 x pre-cut 5/8” hoses
4 x hose clamps
1 x OCC mounting bracket
1 x 10mm mounting bracket bolt
1 x drain valve fitting
1 x spare drain plug
5 x zip ties
-Jack and jackstands, lift, or ramps/to lift the car
-13mm socket/attach OCC bracket to horn
-10mm socket/remove undertray, attach bracket to OCC
-8mm socket/unbolt part of fender liner
-7mm socket or flathead screw driver/tighten hose clamps
-Various assortment of pliers, 15” long locking pliers recommended (Harbor Freight item#97609)/to work with the factory hose clamps
Step 1, unbox/assemble:
Begin by unboxing your Damond Motorsports OCC kit, and ensure all previously listed included items are accounted for. If something is missing, please contact us via email@example.com or call 708-680-6834
With the provided bracket and the 10mm bolt, attach the bracket to the Damond Motorsports OCC, via the smaller of the two holes in the bracket, as shown. Tighten to less than 100 lbs/in or 10Nm
Step 2, prep the car:
Safely lift the front of the car in the air, via ramps, a lift, or jack and jack stands (refer to the owner’s manual for the proper jack points).
Disconnect the negative lead from the battery. You’ll be working around the starter, so you’ll want to be sure to do this.
Remove the engine undertray, if equipped.
Remove the four 8mm bolts securing the fender liner, to get better access to where the OCC will be going later
Step 3, locate and remove factory hose:
Locate the factory PCV hose, it runs from the intake manifold to the PCV valve, underneath and behind the intake manifold.
This is the tricky part, with your pliers, move the factory hose clamps off the intake manifold port and PCV valve ports, by squeezing the clamps open and sliding them towards the middle of the hose. The PCV valve clamp is a bit harder to access than the intake manifold clamp, and may take some time, but can be moved. Long locking pliers (we use a 15” long, Harbor Freight item#97609), are perfect for opening the clamps and then sliding them off the ports. Another option is squeezing the clamp open with your fingers and wiggling it off, but it can be straining to do so.
Now that the clamps are slid from the intake manifold port and PCV valve, you can remove the factory hose. First remove it from the manifold, then the PCV valve. Be careful when removing it from the PCV valve, the valve is plastic, and it could break if you’re not careful. Gently twist the hose around, and wiggle it back and forth, to get it off the manifold and PCV valve. The PCV valve is the green thing you see in this pic.
Step 4, prep the hose clamps:
Now with the factory PCV hose off, remove the factory hose clamps from the hose. Use a couple of the provided zip ties, as to secure the factory hose clamp ends closer together, making the clamp fit loosely on the new hose. Just squeeze the very end of the clamp tabs with your pliers, and wrap the zip tie around the clamp tabs, this keeps the clamp secured open, and makes this job ten times easier.
Step 5, connect new PCV hose:
Install the new pre-cut hose on the PCV valve; it is the hoses with the black 90 plastic fitting, not the hoses with the check valve. Turn the PCV valve so that it is aiming towards the manifold port, this way there’s more clearance around the valve to get the hose on easier. Use a little bit of oil to lubricate the inside of the little 2” hose on the 90 port, and loosely take one of the factory hose clamps and place it over the small hose. Work it up to the PCV valve, on the left of the dip stick tube and wiring harnesses. Once at the PCV valve, work the hose onto the PCV valve with one hand, and twist the hose with the other hand. The twisting of the hose, works to further seat the hose onto the PCV valve. The best way to tell that the hose is fully seated, is to visually inspect and feel where the hose meets the PCV valve. The PCV valve itself has a 45 angle on its backside, where the hose can be felt if it has reached that point.
With the hose fully seated on the PCV valve, use one of the factory hose clamps from earlier, slide it up the hose, to where it’s on the PCV valve port (about ¼” away from the end of the hose). With the clamp on the port, remove the zip tie to expand the clamp, securing the hose to the PCV valve.
Step 6, route and connect new intake manifold hose:
Install the hoses with the check valve onto the intake manifold port; the small 2” hose length is what attaches to the manifold. With a little bit of oil, lube up the inside and loosely take one of the factory hose clamps and place it over the small hose. Work the hose up on the left of the dip stick tube and wiring harnesses, and push/twist it firmly onto the port. The hose is fully seated when it is fully covering the port. Move the factory hose clamp that it is past the manifold port barb (about ½” away from the end of the hose), and remove the zip tie to expand the clamp, securing the hose to the intake manifold.
Step 7, route and connect the hoses to OCC:
First route the hoses downward. Go in between the lower AC line and the lower radiator hoses. Next between the radiator support and the subframe.
With the hoses are routed, attach them to the OCC and secure them with the provided hose clamps. Apply a little bit of oil on the OCC hose ports, to make attaching the hoses easier. Begin with the PCV hose, slide the hose clamp onto the hose and attach it to the lower OCC port. The hose coming from the intake manifold then attaches to the top OCC port. The clamps should be tightened on the hoses, right behind the raised edge on the OCC ports.
Step 8, mount the OCC:
Now with it all together, mount up the OCC to the horn bracket with the existing horn and nut.
Begin by removing the 13mm nut and washer that secures the forward most horn. Place the horn and nut aside. The washer will not be re-used.
Position the OCC up to the horns; route the hose in between the radiator shroud and the sub-frame. The clearance is a bit tight, it helps if you squeeze the hose and push up on the OCC, to get them to where the OCC is to be mounted.
Now that the can is up in its location, align the hole on the OCC bracket with the hole on the horn bracket, and push the horn bolt through. This may take some time, but when the horn bolt is through, attach the 13mm nut. Tighten to 100 lbs/in or 10Nm.
Step 9, check the system for leaks:
With the OCC kit now installed, start the vehicle and check for leaks. You’ll want to listen for an air hiss or whistle around the hose connections. The idle may surge if there is a leak as well. If a leak is detected, follow the previous steps to re-secure the hoses.
Step 10 optional, drain valve. NOT RECOMMENED FOR LOWERED CARS:
Each MS6 Stage 1 Location 1 kit comes with a drain valve that you may wish to install. To do so, remove the drain plug from the OCC. Apply some silicone sealant or Teflon tape to the drain valve threads, and screw it into the OCC. This is a low-profile drain valve, however we do not recommend installing it on lowered cars, as the valve can scrape and damage the OCC.
Congrats on the install! You are finished! We hope you enjoy the Damond Motorsports OCC kit, and all the benefits it provides!
Draining the Damond Motorsports OCC:
When it comes to draining your OCC, place a container underneath the OCC and remove the drain plug. Dispose of the fluids as you would with engine oil; it is safe to add to your used oil containers. Check with local laws for proper oil disposal. Most automotive shops and quick lube places will take used motor oil at no cost to you.
Optional: The DM OCC comes with an easy to operate ball valve drain valve. With the lever horizontal the valve is closed. With the lever pointed vertically down the valve is open.
Draining intervals can depend on many variables, climate, how the car is used/driven and for how long. We recommend draining the OCC and measuring its contents for 3,000 miles, at 1,000 mile intervals. Once you know how much is coming out every 1k, you should be able to gauge on how often you’ll need to drain the OCC. We generally recommend 3k intervals in temps above 40F and/or if the car is driven hard or for extended periods of time, 1k intervals in temps below 40F and/or if the car is primarily used for short trips.