Damond Motorsports Mazdaspeed3 Stage 1 Location 1 Oil Catch Can Kit Install Guide
Posted on May 12 2016
Damond Motorsports Oil Catch Can kits come with everything needed for an optimized Oil Catch Can system. An oil catch can is, in a sense, a filter for the positive crankcase ventilation system. Here is our install guide for the Stage 1 Location 1 kit.
By installing this Product, you understand that:
The buyer/user assumes all risk as to quality, performance and use of these products and agrees to hold DD2, Inc. DBA Damond Motorsports (“DM”) and its representatives not responsible for any injury, loss, or damage; including any and all incidental or consequential damages arising from the sale, installation, or use of our products.
Many parts are intended for “OFF ROAD ” and “RACING” applications only. It is suggested that State and Federal emission regulation be checked, to see whether or not this product complies with those laws. Read through the instruction guide thoroughly, before attempting this install. Do not install any components while the engine is running or shortly after the car has been running. Give the car some time to cool down. Failure to install this product correctly, or failure to remove/reinstall existing components correctly, could result in poor running conditions, or even component and engine failure, which the sole user of this product is responsible for. The install instructions are intended to guide you on how to install this product properly. Only an experienced mechanic should perform this install. In addition, DM, and its representatives reserve the right to modify and or discontinue parts without notice. If you the user/buyer of this product do not agree with the above, contact DM immediately, to discuss a possible return of our product for a full refund minus shipping costs, and other fees.
Here’s a simple diagram of how the kit is to be installed:
OCC kit contents:
1 x Damond Motorsports 5/8” ports Oil Catch Can, preassembled with drain valve and plug (VTA kit if optioned)
1 x check valve, preassembled, may be installed on hoses
3 x pre-cut 5/8” hoses
4 x hose clamps
1 x OCC mounting bracket
3 x 10mm mounting bracket bolts
1 x plastic drain valve fitting
5 x zip ties
-Jack and jackstands, lift, or ramps/to lift the car
-10mm socket/remove undertray, attach bracket to OCC and car
-7mm socket or flathead screw driver/tighten hose clamps
-Various assortment of pliers, 15” long locking pliers recommended (Harbor Freight item#97609)/to work with the factory hose clamps
Step 1, unbox/assemble:
Begin by unboxing your Damond Motorsports OCC kit, and ensure all previously listed included items are accounted for. If something is missing, please contact us via email@example.com or call 708-680-6834
With the provided bracket and two of the 10mm bolts, attach the bracket to the Damond Motorsports OCC. Tighten to less than 100 lbs/in or 10Nm
Step 2, prep the car:
Safely lift the front of the car in the air, via ramps, a lift, or jack and jack stands (refer to the owner’s manual for the proper jack points).
Disconnect the negative lead from the battery. You’ll be working around the starter, so you’ll want to be sure to do this.
Remove the engine undertray bolts (blue dots) and plastic clips (blue arrows), if equipped, and remove the untertray.
Step 3, locate and remove factory hose:
Locate the factory PCV hose, it runs from the intake manifold to the PCV valve, underneath and behind the intake manifold.
This is the tricky part, with your pliers, move the factory hose clamps off the intake manifold port and PCV valve ports, by squeezing the clamps open and sliding them towards the middle of the hose. The PCV valve clamp is a bit harder to access than the intake manifold clamp, and may take some time, but can be moved. Long locking pliers (we use a 15” long, Harbor Freight item#97609), are perfect for opening the clamps and then sliding them off the ports. Another option is squeezing the clamp open with your fingers and wiggling it off, but it can be straining to do so.
Now that the clamps are slid from the intake manifold port and PCV valve, you can remove the factory hose. First remove it from the manifold, then the PCV valve. Be careful when removing it from the PCV valve, the valve is plastic, and it could break if you’re not careful. Gently twist the hose around, and wiggle it back and forth, to get it off the manifold and PCV valve. The PCV valve is the green thing you see in this pic.
Step 4, prep the hose clamps:
Now with the factory PCV hose off, remove the factory hose clamps from the hose. Use a couple of the provided zip ties, as to secure the factory hose clamp ends closer together, making the clamp fit loosely on the new hose. Just squeeze the very end of the clamp tabs with your pliers, and wrap the zip tie around the clamp tabs, this keeps the clamp secured open, and makes this job ten times easier.
Step 5, connect new PCV hose:
Note: There are two possible ways to route the new hose coming from the PCV valve to the OCC. Be sure to read through both ways before proceeding work on the vehicle. To decide which way is best for you, you may want to try routing the hose both ways. If you have intercooler piping, one may work better than the other, to provide clearance around the piping.
Routing option 1:
Install the new pre-cut hose on the PCV valve; it is the hose WITHOUT the check valve. Turn the PCV valve so that it is aiming towards the manifold port, this way there’s more clearance around the valve to get the hose on easier. Use a little bit of oil to lubricate the inside of the hose, and work it up to the PCV valve, on the left of the dip stick tube and wiring harnesses. Once at the PCV valve, work the hose onto the PCV valve with one hand, and twist the hose with the other hand. The twisting of the hose, works to further seat the hose onto the PCV valve. The best way to tell that the hose is fully seated, is to visually inspect and feel where the hose meets the PCV valve. The PCV valve itself has a 45 angle on its backside, where the hose can be felt if it has reached that point.
With the hose fully seated on the PCV valve, use one of the factory hose clamps from earlier, slide it up the hose, to where it’s on the PCV valve port (about ¼” away from the end of the hose). With the clamp on the port, remove the zip tie to expand the clamp, securing the hose to the PCV valve.
With the hose now secured to the PCV valve, route the hose to the other side of the dip stick tube and above the starter wires and wiring harness. Begin with bending the other end of the hose up to where the hose will need to be routed. Follow the pictures below to see how the routing is done.
When the hose is over the wiring, reach up to the PCV valve with one hand and hold the end of the routed hose with the other hand. Turn the PCV valve so that it points forward; slightly towards the right, do this by using one hand to turn the valve by moving the hose that goes into it under the manifold and over to the right and the other hand gently pulling on the hose. Remember to not apply too much pressure on or around the PCV valve while doing this, as it is plastic and fragile.
Routing option 2:
Install the new pre-cut hose on the PCV valve; it is the hose WITHOUT the check valve. Turn the PCV valve so that it is aiming towards the right when looked at from the front, this is the path the hose will go to the OCC.
Use a little bit of oil to lubricate the inside of the hose and route it up underneath the clutch fluid hardline, underneath the wiring harness, above the coolant hardline. Now between the throttle body and fuel rail, underneath the fuel pump cover (not shown here), to the PCV valve.
Once at the PCV valve, inspect that the hose has a straight shot onto the valve, and gently push the hose onto the valve with one hand, twisting the hose with the other hand, to better fully seated on the valve. The best way to tell that the hose is fully seated, is to visually inspect and feel where the hose meets the PCV valve. The PCV valve itself has a 45 angle on its backside, where the hose can be felt if it has reached that point. With the hose fully seated on the PCV valve, use one of the factory hose clamps from earlier, slide it up the hose, to where it’s on the PCV valve port (about ¼” away from the end of the hose). With the clamp on the port, remove the zip tie to expand the clamp, securing the hose to the PCV valve.
Step 6, route and connect new intake manifold hose:
Install the hoses with the check valve onto the intake manifold port; the small 2” hose length is what attaches to the manifold. With a little bit of oil, lube up the inside and loosely take one of the factory hose clamps and place it over the small hose. Work the hose up to the intake manifold by going over the engine oil cooler and filter housing, underneath the starter wires and harness, and push/twist it firmly onto the port. The hose is fully seated when it is fully covering the port. Move the factory hose clamp that it is past the manifold port barb (about ½” away from the end of the hose), and remove the zip tie to expand the clamp, securing the hose to the intake manifold.
Step 7, connect hose to OCC:
With the hoses are routed, near to where the OCC will be mounted, attach them to the OCC and secure them with the provided hose clamps. Apply a little bit of oil on the OCC hose ports, to make attaching the hoses easier. Begin with the PCV hose, slide the hose clamp onto the hose and attach it to the lower OCC port. The hose coming from the intake manifold then attaches to the top OCC port. The clamps should be tightened on the hoses, right behind the raised edge on the OCC ports.
Note for routing option 1: The hoses will cross over one another when attached; be sure to follow the pictures below, for how/where the hoses cross over. Here you see the PCV hose goes on the outside and underneath of the intake manifold hose, before connecting onto the OCC.
Note for routing option 2: The hoses may need to be trimmed, as this route requires less hose. Approximately 3” of the PCV hose and 1-2” of the intake manifold may need to be removed. Be sure to mock up where the OCC will be mounted before cutting any hose, as you may need more to get around intercooler piping and other mods.
Step 8, mount the OCC:
Now with it all together, mount up the OCC to the frame with the provided bracket and bolts. Begin by removing the factory installed bolt, if equipped, from the welded on frame nut. Position the OCC up to the frame nut (either side is fine), and secure it using one of the provided 10mm bolts. Tighten to less than 100 lbs/in or 10Nm
NOTE: On the 2010-2013 MS3’s there are two possible mounting points, as there are two welded on frame nuts. You may use either one. On the 2007-2009 MS3’s there is only one frame nut to which the OCC can be mounted.
With the provided zip ties, loosely attach the hose where you see fit. You’ll want there to be some play for the hose to travel as the engine moves, so don’t tighten the zip ties all the way, just to secure the hose in place from other components.
Step 9, check the system for leaks:
With the OCC kit now installed, start the vehicle and check for leaks. You’ll want to listen for an air hiss or whistle around the hose connections. The idle may surge if there is a leak as well. If a leak is detected, follow the previous steps to re-secure the hoses.
Step 10 optional, drain barb thru the undertray:
Each MS3 Stage 1 Location 1 kit comes with a drain barb, which you can decide whether or not to install. Begin by loosely placing the undertray back onto the vehicle. From above the engine, reach down to the OCC drain, and mark underneath it with a marker. This is where you’ll need to drill about a 1” hole. Remove the undertray and drill or cut a hole.
Simply screw in the provided plastic hose barb connector into the OCC drain valve. Reinstall the undertray, to make sure the barb aligns with the hole (older style metal barb shown here).
Congrats on the install! You are finished! We hope you enjoy the Damond Motorsports OCC kit, and all the benefits it provides!
Draining the Damond Motorsports OCC:
The DM OCC comes with an easy to operate ball valve drain valve. With the lever horizontal the valve is closed. With the lever pointed vertically down the valve is open.
When it comes to draining your OCC, place a container underneath the drain and open the valve. Dispose of the fluids as you would with engine oil; it is safe to add to your used oil containers. Check with local laws for proper oil disposal. Most automotive shops and quick lube places will take used motor oil at no cost to you.
Draining intervals can depend on many variables, climate, how the car is used/driven and for how long. We recommend draining the OCC and measuring its contents for 3,000 miles, at 1,000 mile intervals. Once you know how much is coming out every 1k, you should be able to gauge on how often you’ll need to drain the OCC. We generally recommend 3k intervals in temps above 40F and/or if the car is driven hard or for extended periods of time, 1k intervals in temps below 40F and/or if the car is primarily used for short trips.